Category Archives: world

to travel well…

Gorde, Provence

It is better to travel well than to arrive.
~Buddha

This time around, my traveling took on a new pattern.  Instead of making a long list of ‘must-see’ places, I carried some guidebooks and maps around (on my iPad–so convenient), and let serendipity guide much of my wanderings.  The second and third days in Provence I had no reservations and no firm plan except that I had a vague notion of wanting to see St. Remy-de-Provence because of being a Remy myself.  And while that town was utterly charming, it was more crowded and less fun than the other parts of Provence that I visited.  Some things I learned from this experience:

-local Visitor’s Bureaus are invaluable resources for finding lodging at the last minute

-much of Provence is not in guidebooks and can’t be found through a Google search

-the locals were eager to make suggestions for excellent eating, and they were more than willing to go out of their way to make sure that we didn’t get lost in our search for food and lodging

-though at times the roundabouts were confusing, most every road was well signposted for finding one’s way

-when you get up one morning with the intention of ‘driving to the next village’ for coffee and you just start driving in whatever random direction seems interesting, it might be a very long time before you find coffee.  But when you do, it will be at the perfect little family-run cafe with pain chocolate and a hot dark brew.

More than anything, I learned to release my need to know everything ahead of time.  I let myself just be where I was, even if that included being a wee bit hungry when a restaurant wasn’t just around the corner.  I not only found beautiful medieval towns, waterways, rock formations, and tasty olives-wine-lavender-cheese, but I also found huge comfort in learning to do things a new way, and to even enjoyed it more than how I’ve traveled in the past.

I used to be far more afraid of an uncertain future.  But I’m not (so much) now…

burning

Isn’t it enough to see that a garden is beautiful without having to believe that there are fairies at the bottom of it too?
~Douglas Adams

IMG_5010Over and over again during my travels I found myself drawn into churches (this behavior undoubtedly abetted by the fact that France and Belgium are chock-full of churches).  I love the cool quiet spaces of sanctuaries–for meditation and for observation.

While at one famous church in Paris, I lit a candle for a friend and said a prayer for her.  Paying 2 euros for the candle before lighting and setting it on the stand felt a bit…cheap to me.  I didn’t want to think about money, only about my friend.  I suppose that’s why I tend to feel so conflicted about religion–somehow the practicalities of the organizations (money, structure, authority) tend to bog down what’s most beautiful about the devotion of the adherents.  Yet, as frustrated as I am with religion, I give homage to the beautiful spaces that are the remnants of such faith–the church structures that delight and lift my thoughts a bit higher.

Roll through my chant…

Thee in thy panoply, thy measured dual throbbing, and thy beat convulsive;
Thy black cylindric body, golden brass, and silvery steel;
Thy ponderous side-bars, parallel and connecting rods, gyrating, shuttling at thy sides;
Thy metrical, now swelling pant and roar—now tapering in the distance;
Thy great protruding head-light, fix’d in front;
Thy long, pale, floating vapor-pennants, tinged with delicate purple;
The dense and murky clouds out-belching from thy smoke-stack;
Thy knitted frame—thy springs and valves—the tremulous twinkle of thy wheels;
Thy train of cars behind, obedient, merrily-following,
Through gale or calm, now swift, now slack, yet steadily careering:
Type of the modern! emblem of motion and power! pulse of the continent!
For once, come serve the Muse, and merge in verse, even as here I see thee[…]

Fierce-throated beauty!
Roll through my chant, with all thy lawless music! thy swinging lamps at night;
Thy piercing, madly-whistled laughter! thy echoes, rumbling like an earthquake, rousing
all!
~from Walt Whitman, “To a Locomotive in Winter”

IMG_4952

One of the best parts of my trip was that I traveled (and traveled and traveled) by train. I took high-speed trains from Brussels to Avignon, from there to Paris, and also to London and back. I’ve said before that I try to make sure that every single journey I take includes a ride on a train, and this one certainly didn’t disappoint! Some of my train trips even included spontaneous cheese-bread-waffle picnics like this one:


(And because I fear that I’ve spoken far too much about my wine-bibbing on this trip already on my blog, the beverage in my glass will remain unmentioned…but were I to mention it, I might note just how strange it felt to be allowed to drink such stuff on public transport…)

And…as a further indulgence for my train fetish, I also had the opportunity to visit and photograph a few antique cars near an old railway-station-turned-coffeehouse. I’m rather embarrassed to admit just how much I enjoyed that part of my adventure…

At night…

One of my favorite aspects of being in Provence was walking around the old cities late at night, when lanterns threw such charming shadows on the old buildings.  Typically, I was more than a little warmed by local wine as we wandered up and around cobblestone streets, which certainly added a bit of magic to the experience.

This photo is a bit blurrier than most I snapped on those long walks, but I love how it captures the washed-out romance of the night.  Now, if only I could add the loud hum of cicadas and the smell of water splashing in corner fountains and the sight of a few kitties peering down at me from red tile rooftops and an orange crescent moon growing larger every night that I was there.  And maybe you can imagine me taking it all in, wide-eyed and smiling, hardly believing that I wasn’t simply dreaming such beauty.

a garden path (and a story of getting lost in Provence)

“A garden path,’ write the landscape architects Charles W. Moore, William J. Mitchell, and William Turnbull, ‘can become the thread of a plot, connecting moments and incidents into a narrative. The narrative structure might be a simple chain of events with a beginning, middle, and end. It might be embellished with diversions, digressions, and picaresque twists, be accompanied by parallel ways (subplots), or deceptively fork into blind alleys like the alternative scenarios explored in a detective novel.”
— Rebecca Solnit (Wanderlust: A History of Walking)

That first night in Provence was one that continually unfolded…

First, there was the dinner at the roadside restaurant that was reputed to have some ‘good’ food, but was one of the better meals that I’ve had, the food served in a back garden surrounded by roses, the wine coming from the next vineyard (from “right over there,” the waiter explained a gestured to the vines that were just beyond the terrace where we sat).

Then there was the nighttime wander around the old walled city of Mazan. In the dark it was so beautiful–every corner more charming than the one before. I snapped a few pics in the dark, knowing that I didn’t have the right lens for the dark lighting, but wanting to capture the mood, nonetheless.

Then there was the getting lost on the way back to the chambre d’hotes in the countryside. I learned that it’s a lot tougher to fine one’s way on narrow Provence ‘streets’ in the dark. That led to coming upon a small village fair in St. Didier–a place that I didn’t even know existed until losing my way and landing there. It looked as though all of the locals were out–teenagers gathered in dark corners, smoking, and older folks clapping their hands to the somewhat hoky musical performances on a small stage. There was cotton candy and carnival games. And no one seemed to notice the American stranger in their midst…

And, finally, there was A Cappella farm (after many detours and meanderings). I decided that even though the night was more than spent, I would still keep my plan to swim in the pool behind the house by starlight. It took forever to find my way down the stone garden steps in the dark (and I will confess to saying more than a few swear words as I stumbled along the path and hoped that no critters would jump out at me in the dark), but it was well worth the fear and trouble.

Because if one has the opportunity for a dip in the pool in the dark in Provence after a time of being lost and then being found, then one just has to take that chance when it comes–even if it’s a bit cold and dark and spidery along the pathway…

Last night in Europe…

I didn’t take my camera with me last night, the final night of my Europe trip.  I’d had a long day of snapping pictures and sightseeing in Bruges, and I needed a change.  I was also realizing how, sometimes, being behind the lens stops me from actually experiencing and feeling what’s happening around me.  So I left the camera at home, put on a fancy dress and stockings, and headed to a  gourmet restaurant for a few hours of food-gasm.

Everything tasted so good (artichokes, shrimp, Swiss beef…), the wine was smooth, the service impeccable.   I sopped every last drip of sauce with slices of fresh bread.  My face was flushed with much pleasure as I stepped out onto the breezy dark streets of Brussels, to join new friends at a local bar. They mostly asked me stories about my LDS upbringing–so curious about the Book of Mormon and ancient-modern prophets.  And I told them how, when I was Mormon I never could’ve imagined that someday I would have professional and personal opportunities that would bring me to foreign cities, or that I would even have a paycheck of my own. Back then I couldn’t have comprehended a night that would include so much pleasure, so much culture, so much living.

I got teary-eyed several times yesterday, mostly because I wasn’t yet ready to go home. But also because of the intensity of change…I lack the words to describe how I’m feeling.  Like now, having just arrived home and I’m here sitting in my living room and burying my face in the blue shawl that I wore throughout my trip…and am hoping that it will long retain the scent of last night.

Climbing the steps to Sacre Coeur

 

Jana Takes Europe 424, originally uploaded by pilgrimgirl.

A favorite memory from my Europe travels: arriving in Paris in the early evening and then wandering Montmarte, climbing every single step to the top of the hill & then being overwhelmed at just how beautiful the city looked from up above. Then, walking the canals until settling on a small cafe for a traditional French meal. And much later, walking back to the hotel and realizing how tempting it was to stay up all night, my only night in Paris on this trip.
I know it’s sappy and romantic to have such huge affection for Paris…but every time I’m there, I simply can’t help myself…

by leaving our safety net…

Oh, I love this article and the connections it draws between lust and wanderlust. I’ve done a bit of that myself, these past few months, so I can relate to Eaves’ stories–there’s something so fresh with potential when meeting someone new while traveling…

Written on five small sheets of yellow notepaper, the letter read in part: “By leaving our safety net, we have thrown our souls upon the wind, exposing ourselves to all of the fears and dangers that we sought to protect each other from, and in doing so, we have made ourselves available to experience things that … border on the magical.”

if you’re afraid of loneliness, don’t travel

The wish to travel seems to me characteristically human: the desire to move, to satisfy your curiosity or ease your fears, to change the circumstances of your life, to be a stranger, to make a friend, to experience an exotic landscape, to risk the unknown, to bear witness to the consequences, tragic or comic, of people possessed by the narcissism of minor differences. Chekhov said, “If you’re afraid of loneliness, don’t marry.” I would say, if you’re afraid of loneliness, don’t travel. The literature of travel shows the effects of solitude, sometimes mournful, more often enriching, now and then unexpectedly spiritual.
~Paul Theroux

Photo of one of my all-time favorite trips to Canterbury, England. Such an important journey for my pilgrim soul.

a fool’s paradise

We all know how we can be turned around by a magic place; that’s why we travel, often. And yet we all know, too, that the change cannot be guaranteed. Travel is a fool’s paradise, Emerson reminded us, if we think that we can find anything far off that we could not find at home. The person who steps out into the silent emptiness of Easter Island is, alas, too often the same person who got onto the plane the day before at Heathrow, red-faced and in a rage.

Yet still the hope persists and sends us out onto the road: certain places can so shock or humble us that they take us to places inside ourselves, of terror or wonder or the confounding mixture of them both, that we never see amidst the hourly distractions and clutter of home. They slap us awake, and into a recognition of who we might be in our deepest moments. I will never forget walking out onto the terrace of my broken guest-house in Lhasa, in 1985, and seeing the Potala Palace above what was then just a cluster of traditional whitewashed Tibetan houses, its thousand windows seeming to watch over us. I will never forget, too, visiting the Church of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem two years ago and feeling, whether I wanted to or not, all the prayers, hopes and complications that people had brought to it. The place is as dark, irregular and everyday as the fights it houses — as worldly and human as the Potala seems the opposite — and yet the very fact that so many millions have come for centuries to pray and sob among its flickering candles ensures that many more will do so, even if, like me, they’re not Christian or Buddhist or anything.”
~From Pico Iyer

Photo from my trip to China in 2005–the first time I traveled sans spouse and children. And, such an important journey for me…